March 29, 2007
John Campbell, head of food and beverage at the Vineyard at Stockcross, and Marcus Wareing, chef-patron of London’s Petrus, were the only chefs to be elevated to two Michelin stars this year. Here they discuss new-found success, tantrums and the next likely three-star restaurant. Joanna Wood listened in
John Campbell; You’re from Southport, aren’t you?
Marcus Wareing; Yes, Churchtown.
JC; My brother lives in Churchtown, I’m from Knowsley. What college did you go to?
MW; Southport Technical College, as it was then. It was really good. An amazing environment at that time. Everybody was into cooking, very competitive – the lecturers really cared. I was there from 1986-88. Marco was just coming through, although I didn’t hear about him until I was at Le Gavroche in 1989. I went straight into the Savoy when I came to London in 1988 – for me it was about getting into a five-star hotel. Then I went straight into Le Gavroche. As soon as I got there I knew that’s where I wanted to be [in restaurants]. It just felt right. Cooking was Michel Roux Jr and Mark Prescott. That’s where I met Gordon [Ramsay], Stephen Terry, Steven Williams, Max Gnoyke… incredible talent there. Amazing era. Gordon was the one that stood out like a sore fucking thumb. Always the noisiest one, always…
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